Giorgio Armani Womenswear Fall-Winter 1990

The collection is built around three aesthetic registers that intertwine fluidly: an avant-garde tension linked to the reconstruction of the jacket—a reference to the Mongolian imagery—and a refined evocation of Imperial China. These elements are absorbed and reworked into a stylistic language that favors layering of references and continuity between everyday and ceremonial wear.

The first theme expresses itself through an exploration of tailoring’s form and function—the jacket is deconstructed and redefined in proportions—paired with trousers and shirts featuring masculine cuts in traditional fabrics such as pinstripe, Prince of Wales, and herringbone. For eveningwear, experimentation shifts to richer and more luminous materials—velvets and satins—subtly recalling the clean and sophisticated geometries of the 1920s.

The second core explores an aesthetic of protection and softness—through rounded coats, silk blouses, and fitted trousers reminiscent of leggings—in a color range inspired by burnt earth, cold mists, and the silent strength of the landscape. The suggestion of femininity in motion—in dialogue with the material—guides the choice of fabrics and silhouettes.

The third register emerges in the evening proposal—where elegance relies on slender shapes and balanced compositions. Redingote jackets and crossed necklines are crafted in opulent silks with iridescent reflections—embellished with vivid color details or embroidery that captures light with restraint. The result is a sophisticated synthesis of historical memory, sartorial construction, and a contemporary vision of grace.