Giorgio Armani Womenswear Spring-Summer 1986

The collection is built around an essential and fluid vision of femininity, reinterpreting English style through a process of deconstructing the men’s jacket, adapted for the female wardrobe. The shoulders are pronounced, yet the overall lines maintain softness and lightness, while the garments gently hug the hips, emphasizing the silhouette without constraining it.

The chosen fabrics—linen, crêpe, and silk chiffon—highlight the movement and natural drape of the crew-neck cardigan jackets and full, flowing skirts, creating a play of transparency and lightness that reflects the desire to liberate the form from conventional rigidity. The skillful use of multicolored sequin embroidery, lace, and lurex threads introduces a refined and radiant decorative dimension, bestowing preciousness on the most feminine pieces without weighing them down.

The color palette features a dynamic contrast between muted tones, recalling the sobriety typical of English style, and brighter, glossier shades that enliven both daywear and evening ensembles. The latter are distinguished by wide, gypsy-style skirts and sheer overlays, elements that convey lightness and a sense of expressive freedom, outlining a balance between tradition and modernity in the definition of femininity.